Puerto Viejo town
10 minutes by bicycle
Restaurants, bakeries, the Saturday market, bike rental, dive shops and a lot of music. Busy in the evening in a way that Playa Negra never is.
Playa Negra is black volcanic sand, driftwood and coconut palms — and considerably fewer people than the beaches south of town.
Out of our gate, left along the lane, and you are on the sand. Most mornings there is nobody else on it.
Playa Negra is long, flat and good for walking. The water is open Caribbean, so it has a current and some days it has surf — swim where other people are swimming, and ask us about the day's conditions before you go in with children.
For calm, snorkel-clear water, ride south to Punta Uva. For the reef and the sloths, Cahuita National Park is north.
Everything below is within an hour, most of it on a bicycle. We can arrange the tours and the taxis.
10 minutes by bicycle
Restaurants, bakeries, the Saturday market, bike rental, dive shops and a lot of music. Busy in the evening in a way that Playa Negra never is.
About 8 km south
A rescue and release centre for sloths, monkeys, snakes and birds. Tours run in the morning; book ahead in high season.
25–40 minutes south
The calm, turquoise, postcard beaches. Manzanillo is the end of the road and the start of the Gandoca-Manzanillo reserve.
About 30 minutes north
A coastal trail through the forest with a coral reef offshore. Entry to the Kelly Creek gate is by donation. Sloths and howler monkeys are near-certain.
In the garden
Sloths, howler and capuchin monkeys, iguanas, toucans, and the blue morpho butterflies the place is named for. Early morning is best.
All around you
This coast is culturally its own place — Afro-Caribbean and Bribri, with its own food, its own Spanish and its own English. Eat the rice and beans cooked in coconut milk.
Playa Negra at one end of the lane, Puerto Viejo at the other, and a pool in between.